Yeoju 5-day Market with 500 Years of Tradition

Yeoju’s 5-day Market is the second-largest traditional market in Gyeonggi Province, following Moran Market in Seongnam. It is held during intervals of 5 days each month. The market spans about 2km along Jungang-ro (central road) in Yeoju. It has a long history and tradition that started during the Goreyo Dynasty. Even without a map or navigator, you can find this market place easily. When you are about to pass by the Yeoju County Office, you will hear lively market noises. If you follow the smell of cooking food and the fresh smell of soil and plants, you will get to the market before you know it.

At the market, you will see crabs braided in straw and marsh snails from Geumgang, Chungnam Province, freshly-cooked bindaedeok pancakes made of mung beans ground in a traditional millstone method, sweet makgeolli (rice wine) with a tangy aftertaste, Yeoju’s newly harvested shiny chestnuts, and fresh handmade tofu (sondubu)… Korean traditional markets contain something special that we cannot feel from ‘marts’ even though some say that ultra-large discount markets are now mainstream.

Joponaru and Yiponaru, which are located in front of Yeoju Sinreuksa Temple, along with Seoul’s Maponaru and Gwangnaru, used to be four major docks beginning in the Three Kingdoms Period. Yeoju naru is located mid-way between Chungju and Hanyang, which were frequented by merchants who carried local produce from Chungju to Hanyang, today’s Seoul. Naturally, traffic was heavy at Yeoju’s Naru, and merchants formed a large market there, which has continued on to today’s Yeoju traditional market.

The Yeoju market has existed since the Goryeo Dynasty. According to Yeoju County’s official records, it is recorded that: ‘During the Joseon Dynasty, Yeoju mainly produced Ssarisan ceramics and changhoji (Korean traditional mulberry paper for doors and windows). At Sejongjo, 250 seok of rice produced by Yanghwa-gun of Yeoju were stored, and 15 government boats, 20 privately-owned boats, and some 150 military administrations were stationed’. During the 1960s, there used to be 11 traditional markets in Yeoju alone, but now only the Yeoju traditional market has survived.

On days that end in the numbers 5 and 10, the Yeoju traditional market opens beginning at a location between the Annex Building of the Yeoju County Office and running along each alley in Sang-ri and Ha-ri of Yeoju. At around 10 AM, when 2km of Jungang-ro stretching across two railroads is filled with merchants, some 550-600 stores display their wares and are ready to receive customers.

What appears interesting is that this traditional market intermixes quite well with the nearby modern-style shopping malls and brand shops. Directly in front of a brand name clothing store are vendors selling seafood. In front of a cafe, vendors sell fishcakes and old-style donuts. Such interesting scenes can probably only be seen at Yeoju market. Like any other market, Yeoju market also has famous specialty landmarks including Yeoju Ginseng Makgeolli (rice wine) and dumpling vendors. It is not difficult to find these famous eating places even in the long market place, stretching over 2km.

You only need to look for the most crowded place with a long line of people all day long. Directly across from Hari Sinbal Shoe Store, one can find Yeoju Ginseng Makgeolli, which sells a yellow bowl of makgeolli for only KRW 1,000 and one doe (1.8 liter) of makgeolli for KRW 5,000. For over 10 years, this merchant has been selling makgeolli at the same location. This merchant’s makgeolli is quite different from others; it is a nutritional makgeolli that contains various herbs such as Geumsan’s ginseng, dangui, ogapi (Acanthopanax sessiliflorum Seeman), pine needles, licorice, and oriental raisin tree (Hovenia dulcis Thunb).

This merchant personally prepares this makgeolli in an earthenware crock made by a Yeoju earthenware artisan. Enjoying this makgeolli with such side dishes as roasted quail (three for KRW 5,000), Doraechang Gui (roasted pork intestines), and roasted pork ribs will please your taste buds. The foods sold in the market are very cheap, but they all use only the finest quality seasonings.

A dumpling store in front of Seoul Jongmyo Nongyaksa is another landmark store that is run by 8 brothers and sisters. What is special about this merchant’s dumplings is that the skin is thin and the shape of the dumplings is flat, not round. The shape is not appealing, but the taste is heavenly. The filling of dumpling contains leeks, producing a crunchy taste. The size is so big that, for a woman, eating 2-3 dumplings will fill the stomach. One dumpling sells for KRW 500, so this inexpensive price makes the mouth water even more. Dumplings are made fresh each day, and only a certain number of dumplings are made, so they sell out daily. Each day they sell approximately KRW 5.5 million worth of dumplings.

At around 5:30 in the evening, the energy of the sun begins to wane and dozens of lights installed along Jungang-ro begin to twinkle. At that time, this warm and homey market starts to sell things at bargain prices. All day long merchants haggle over prices with customers, but both merchants and customers all look very happy. In 5 days, they will come here again and open up their bundles filled with local produce and have another day’s fun.

Name: Yeoju 5-Day Market

Inquiry: Yeoju-gun Comprehensive Tourism Information Center: +82-31-887-2868

Directions: Intercity buses to Yeoju from metropolitan areas (Seoul, Suwon), as well as from Busan and Daegu are available. Walk for about 10 minutes from the Yeoju Express Bus Terminal towards Yeoju County Office to get to Jungang-ro and Jeil Market. Yeoju 5-Day Market is held there on the days ending with numbers 5 and 10.

Market Size & History: There is no accurate record regarding the beginning of Yeoju market. However, as merchants have traded household goods since the Goryeo Dynasty, this market formed naturally. Yeoju market is a typical 5-day market of Korea, which formed and flourished early in history along with nearby markets such as Cheonryeongjang (Cheonyangjang) and Eokeokjang (Heungcheonjang). Currently, three 5-day markets including Ganamjang, Daesinjang, and Yeojujang still remain, but Yeojujang is the largest.

Business hours: 08:00 to 20:00 (approximate)

Recommended Eateries: Yeossal Bapjip (031-885-9544), which serves a dolsot jeongsik (set menu) and ssalbap jeongsik (rice set menu); Yedang Nanjeongsik (031-885-0080), which sells a Gyeonggi Province-style set menu; and Yeojuseon (031-884-2616), which is famous for its spicy soup and fresh fish stew.

Places to See: Birthplace of Empress Myeongseong; Mok-a Museum of Buddhist Art; Royal Tomb of King Sejong (Yeongneung Royal Tomb); Silleuksa Tourist Park; Yeoju Ceramic Village; Youngwolru Pavilion; Jamsa Folk Museum; Royal Tomb of King Hyojong; Shinsegae Chelsea Premium Outlet

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