Focus Gyeonggi 

We feel somehow solemn in June because the month marks a series of memorial occasions including National Memorial Day on the 6th and the Korean War on the 25th as well as the 1st and 2nd battles ofYeonpyeong on the 15th and 29th. In such an atmosphere, there is something noteworthy: the re-opening from May 4 of the train travelling to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), a place representing the pain of war that has been transformed into a great natural ecosystem.

On a bright day of June, why don’t you take the DMZ train and remind yourself of the pain of the divided country at Dorasan Station, which is the northernmost station in South Korea and take a moment to imagine travelling on the Trans-Eurasia Railway passing Pyeongyang in peace, harmony and love? 

◇ Operation of the DMZ train resumed on May 4 ⓒ Reported by Kwon Oh-kyeong  

While heading to the platform to board the first DMZ train scheduled to leave Seoul Station at 8:30 a.m., I saw the multi-colored train in the distance. That made me smile.

Renovated from a diesel-powered commuting locomotive, the train is made up of three compartments in total with exterior signage reading “Peace, Freedom and Unity” on each car. The inspiration for the design of the 48-seat lead car (Peace) came from a rusty steam locomotive called Mika, a model of the “We want to get back on track” engine that has sat for decades near the U.N. truce village of Panmunjom. Decorated with images of people holding hands, the other two cars (40-seat Unity and 48-seat Love) represent harmony and peace.

I boarded the second car (Unity) because it not only has a cafeteria and a broadcasting studio but also seats facing the windows. I took a seat decorated with multi-colored pinwheel designs and looked out the window. The train began to move slowly. Passing by the concrete jungle and apartment complexes, the train was soon running through green fields.

Amazed by the beautiful landscape seen from the window, I heard an announcement by a friendly crew member asking passengers to fill out an application form for access to Dorasan Station. Although filling out the form on the rattling train was quite challenging, I managed to complete the task and looked around the inside of the train. Examining fancy interior decorations featuring lotus leaves and flowers and hearts as well as words of peace, unity and love in difference languages, I felt a temporary sense of innocence. Above the windows, approximately 150 pictures relating to war, ecology and trains were displayed just like in a photo gallery. 

◇ I wore a pass around my neck and returned to the train. After 10 minutes, the DMZ train arrived at its final destination, Dorasan Station, after passing the Civilian Control Line. ⓒ Reported by Kwon Oh-kyeong

Hardtack, combat rations and rice balls available from train cafeteria

The landscapes seen from the front and back of the running train were displayed on monitor screens in real time, which made me feel like a train engineer.

In the meantime, a second announcement was made asking passengers to come to the cafeteria if they wanted to request songs and share their stories with others. Before long, one passenger requested the remade song “ When Love Passes by ” sung by IU (originally sung by Lee Mun-se).

Some passengers were eating boxed lunches, hardtack, combat rations or rice balls sold at the cafeteria, which offered not only food but also souvenirs such as pieces of wire, hiking cups, bottle openers and puzzles. A few passengers boarded the train at intermediate stations, and the train finally arrived at Imjingang Station where all the passengers alighted from the train at the request of the crew.

The thought of crossing the Civilian Control Line at the identification check point controlled by military police in a stern atmosphere made me slightly nervous. I wore the pass around my neck and returned to the train. About 10 minutes later, the train passed the Civilian Control Line and arrived at Dorasan Station, the final destination of the train. Dorasan Station is the northernmost station in South Korea and the foremost station for travel to North Korea. The crew and military police asked passengers to make sure to return before the scheduled departure time. I moved on to the station. 

◇ Dorasan Station is the northernmost station in South Korea and the foremost station for travel to North Korea ⓒ Reported by Kwon Oh-kyeong

General Tour of Peace Park and Security Tour of underground tunnels

The DMZ train offers two tour routes: the General Tour and the Security Tour.

I chose the General Tour, which features a short circuit of Dorasan Station and Dorasan Peace Park after disembarking at Dorasan Station. Of the tourists boarding the train with me that day, I was the only one to choose this route.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   All the other passengers who chose the Security Tour purchased a Minbuk tour ticket at the ticket office located at Dorasan Station, and boarded a tourist bus waiting outside. According to the crew, the tourists will visit the third underground tunnel and Dora Observatory. I felt a bit lonely; I hardly knew where to start all by myself. Then a middle-aged lady came and talked to me.

“Oh, I have only one participant today. This is the first time I have lead just one person since I became a tour guide.” I was happy for a minute to have this rare opportunity, and moved to Dorasan Peace Park while listening to the explanation provided by Oh Sun-hee, a cultural tour guide working for Paju City. Those who took the General Tour were accompanied by a cultural tour guide dispatched from Paju City to Dorasan Peace Park.

Planning for Doorasan Peace Park began in 2002 when former U.S. President George Bush and late former Korean President Kim Dae-jung visited Dorasan Station; construction of the park was finally completed in June 2008. Of particular note, it is even more meaningful as the Unification Forest was established through financial support and trees donated by residents of Gyeonggi Province in the spirit of peace. 

◇ Dorasan Peace Park has a variety of exhibits and sculptures that represent peace and harmony. ⓒ Reported by Kwon Oh-kyeong

Experiential Program Book full of interesting stories

When I entered the peace park, I heard the rattling sound of the closing door. “Am I confined now?” I was seized by anxiety. Guide Oh said, “It will open when we are ready to leave.” It did not seem to be a big deal to her.

I grabbed the experiential program book entitled Dodo and Rara at the entrance and flipped through it. The book was filled with instructive and entertaining stories for children. If participants experience all of the fun illustrated in the program book, they will be given a small souvenir. At the Experience Hall named, one can find a tile decoration program named ‘Filling the Wall of Friendship with Hope,’ which has been designed to express wishes for the peace of North Korea’s children.

The program will continue until November. Tourists can leave a drawing or message on a tile  for a participation fee of KRW 3,000. Two thousand tiles will fill the Wall of Friendship. Proceeds will be used in a project to fight tuberculosis in North Korea. There was a barbed wire structure next to the Experience Hall upon which participants could hang messages wishing for the peaceful unification of Korea.

Guide Oh had a wealth of historical knowledge. I enjoyed her explanations and the diverse programs exclusively available for me until the tour ended. I had a cup of coffee at the unmanned café named Deer Café, placing KRW 2,000 in a box to pay for my coffee. No one would visit the café that day.

Guide Oh explained, “If you take the DMZ train, the Security Tour seems a bit tight while the General Tour seems leisurely.” I would recommend the Security Tour for those who want to actively engage in security experiences and the General Tour for those who want a more relaxing course. 

◇ Children can have more fun at Dorasan Peace Park through the program book Dodo and Rara, and will be given a small souvenir when they experience all of the fun things introduced in the book. The “Filling the Wall of Friendship with Hope” tile decoration event will run until November in the Experience Hall. ⓒ Reported by Kwon Oh-kyeong

Dorasan Station crowded with foreign tourists

It was now 11:50 am. I reminded myself of the crew’s request to return 20 minutes prior to the departure time. I headed for Dorasan Station. Unlike the peaceful morning, Dorasan Station was crowded with lots of foreign tourists. I wondered what they would see and feel here. I boarded the DMZ train again, feeling more comfortable this time. A crew member on the train said, “You were busy filling out the application forms for the pass in the morning, but you will have a much more relaxing journey back to Seoul”. She also heightened the expectations of the passengers by saying, “A variety of events await you.”

Outside the window, one could see the old railroad bridge of Imjingang River standing as if in testament to the pain of the war. The bridge was destroyed during the Korean War, and only piers now remain. The train also passed by the Bridge of Freedom; approximately 12,000 South Korean prisoners of war crossed the bridge to return to South Korea following the Korean War. Before long, an announcement was made asking the passengers to find a ‘land mine’. A souvenir was given to the passenger who found one.

A series of personal stories and song requests continued on the train ride to Seoul. A passenger shared her touching story, saying, “I am on my way back to Seoul after seeing my mother’s home town far in the lonely distance. She really missed her home town”. The train became calm and solemn for a moment. The crew took photos of passengers to select a prize winner while stories and song requests continued. The train ride to Seoul was full of energy, and it was about 1:15 pm when the train arrived at Seoul Station. The five-hour tour passed so quickly that it felt like a dream.

◇ Starting with DMZ train operation on May 4, the suspended Dorasan Station Tour has resumed. ⓒ Reported by Kwon Oh-kyeong

● TIP  History of the DMZ train

The DMZ train first ran in 2002, but was temporarily suspended from 2010 until resuming operation in May.

Starting with the first run of the DMZ train on May 4, the suspended Dorasan Station Tour has resumed. Attracting over 50,000 tourists every year with six daily runs of the security tourism train, the Dorasan Station Tour had been a leading security tourist attraction in Korea since opening in April of 2002 through the June 15th North–South Joint Declaration. 

Unfortunately, the tour was suspended on June 4 of 2010 following a security incident involving a tourist in 2009. As a result, tourist numbers plunged sharply to a mere 5,000 a year, and the Dorasan Peace Park was temporarily closed. Accordingly, Gyeonggi Province, the ROK Army’s 1st Infantry Division, the Ministry of Unification (Inter-Korean Transit Office), Paju City, the Korea Railroad Cooperation (KORAIL) and the Gyeonggi Tourism Cooperation have long endeavored to resume the tour of Dorasan Station, which is symbolic of wishes for the reunification of the Korean peninsula.

After a series of deliberations, the concerned parties finally signed a joint agreement to promote Dorasan Station tourism on December 28, 2012. Subsequently, on March 4 of 2012, they signed an agreement for Dorasan Station tourism that set forth terms for the earnest fulfillment of previous agreements by each organization.

Subsequently, KORAIL completed the renovation of the DMZ train and a resumption plan was finalized for May 4 after the 1st Infantry Division checked the site.

The DMZ train runs twice daily from Seoul Station (08:30, 13:40) to Dorasan Station, passing through Neunggok Station, Munsan Station, Uncheon Station and Imjingang Station. Diverse programs are featured including explanations of the surrounding areas and the screening of a promotional video to introduce tourist destinations around the stations.

One-way train tickets from Seoul Station to Dorasan Station cost KRW 8,900 on weekends, and KRW 5,000 from Imjingang River Station to Dorasan Station. DMZ Plus tickets are also available at a cost of KRW 16,000 for those who want to freely board and depart at any of the stations along the way during the day.

When taking the DMZ train, visitors are only granted access to Dorasan Station after presenting a valid form of identification such as a resident registration card or driver’s license. This is because all the passengers are required to show their identification at Imjingang Station in order to cross the Civilian Control Line.

When their ID is confirmed, visitors are allowed to tour Dorasan Station and Dorasan Peace Park for free. If they purchase a Minbuk tour ticket at Dorasan Station, they can also take the existing Minbuktour for visits to the 3rd underground tunnel and Dora Observatory by shuttle bus.

Gyeonggi Province and the Gyeonggi Tourism Organization renovated Dorasan Peace Park to attract tourists, and have prepared various programs including the experiential program book and the Wall of Friendship to ensure that visitors have memorable experiences.

ⓒ Gyeonggi G-News | Reporter Han Jin-hee

http://gnews.gg.go.kr/news/news_detail.asp?number=201406101148367055C059&s_code=C05